Features

Luxe Pack Monaco Strikes Chord with Buyers

December 1, 2010

By: Jamie Matusow

Editor-in-Chief

Luxe Pack Monaco Strikes Chord with Buyers

Decorative techniques and airless components dominate trends at October’s luxury packaging show.

Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

Not even a spotty nationwide transit strike in neighboring France could significantly offset the momentum of fall’s most anticipated luxury packaging show. The 23rd edition of Luxe Pack Monaco took place October 20-22, as President Nicolas Sarkozy’s controversial plan to raise workers’ retirement age from 60-62 was effected. Sporadic rail and air problems impinged slightly on the flow of international packaging buyers arriving at the prismatic-looking Grimaldi Forum in Monaco, but overall attendance reached 5,726, just a slight decline of 3% over last year. International visitors, from nearly 80 countries, accounted for 54% of the total.

Unlike in years past, sunny skies and warm weather contributed to the upbeat mood as European suppliers declared that after a slow year in 2009, things had seemingly returned to normal, and activity among brands was building. Several U.S. manufacturers also announced exciting projects, but seemed a bit more skeptical about the end of the recession. Internationally acclaimed packaging designer Marc Rosen, who accompanied me on a survey of the show floor (see sidebar), voiced disappointment at the number of flankers released in the stead of new launches, but also noted that he now “sensed a positive feeling for the first time in a while—a lighter feeling, one of optimism.”

Demand for booth space remained strong this year, according to Luxe Pack Monaco’s managing director Nathalie Grosdidier, who told me that a tent had been added for registration in order to accommodate 10 additional suppliers in the building, bringing the total number of exhibitors to 340. Forty new exhibitors shared the show floor this year, with more than 30 countries represented in all. While packaging for wines & spirits and a few other luxury goods were included, the primary focus was on beauty, personal care and fragrance packaging.

Visitors to this year’s event couldn’t help but be inspired. With the latest caps and bottles, bags and boxes, tubes and tottles, lipsticks and mascaras, Luxe Pack Monaco proved as always to be the hub of the luxury packaging industry. From sustainable options to new materials, precise applicators to textural decorative techniques, airless pumps to new molding techniques, exhibitors wowed the crowd.

In many cases, supplier innovation and brand marketing have combined to morph beauty products into must-have fashion accessories. The “sustainability factor” also continued to be an important focus among European vendors, who displayed eco-friendly materials from papers to pumps.

In fact, Grosdidier told me that she—along with the Trends Observer group of experts at the show—had observed more strides than ever in sustainable packaging. She said,“Sustainability is not a style any more. It is the level you must have to launch a new product.”

She commented that many innovations are tied together with aesthetics—and that many products are sustainable even if you can’t immediately see the eco-friendly aspects. “The products are conceived that way,” said Grosdidier. “Even two years ago it was not at that level.”

Tactile Touches

I found this observation to be evident throughout the show floor. Whether through materials used, light weighting or substituting plastic parts, sustainability seemed part of the packaging vocabulary, starting with the complimentary show shopping bag handed out to visitors by Rissmann. The leopard-print bags touted the company’s message of sustainable luxury. Rissmann was among a number of bag and paper companies that featured eco-friendly choices.

Limited editions of Womanity by Thierry Mugler offer brass sheaths that can be removed and worn as bracelets.

Continuing another trend of late, I couldn’t help but notice the abundance of tactile embellishments and textural packaging materials. Upon first entering the Esplanade, I was drawn to the impressive wall that defined Eurotextile’s booth. From woven raffia bottle coverings to organic cotton bags, the display of enhanced packaging offerings tempted visitors to reach out and touch. One paper shopping bag was super deluxe with silver link chain handles, while small mesh bags in gold, silver, black and antique brass wrapped around fragrance bottles. Other flacons featured metal plates affixed with rings.

Perhaps no material denotes texture, natural and eco-friendly quite like wood, which was utilized in a number of cosmetics and fragrance packages. At Technotraf, genuine wood shells for bottles and caps gave an earthy, hand-carved look to fragrances such as the cone-shaped Issey Miyake, a flanker of a different material. The secret to fragrance packed in a wood vessel is an aluminum bag housed inside, explained Jaume Ordeig. Wooden packages for home fragrance, lipsticks and mascaras were also on display.

Bormioli Luigi created the bottle for Van Cleef & Arpel’s Midnight in Paris; the bottle shape comes from a squashed sphere; the constellation represents the Paris sky at midnight.

At P.R. Plastic, wood and other natural materials came together with plastic as tactile compacts, jar covers and brush caps. Intricate, inlaid patterns of mother of pearl and wood formed a veneer that covered plastic components. Another line from P.R. Plastic featured natural materials and resins in brilliant colors.

At Minelli, wood was also used to hold fragrance, but simply as a decorative object. Small glass bottles were placed in holes drilled in blocks of ash or laminated wood.

Pujolasos displayed wooden packaging designs for items including nail polish and fragrance caps, compacts and mascara.

Leather was one of the tactile materials offered to enhance packages at Metapack, which specializes in high-end decorative techniques. For instance, Carolina Herrera fragrance bottles were swathed in embossed red leather, and accessorized with metal charms. Limited editions of Womanity by Thierry Mugler offered added value with brass sheaths that can be removed and worn as jewelry, such as bracelets and rings.

Even plastic boxes now display tactile effects, thanks to new printing techniques. HLP Clear Packaging Products was showing its latest innovation to add a tactile touch to its clear, plastic boxes. Jeslie Wong stated,“Many customers are no longer satisfied with flat printing; they want something 3D, tactile.” In addition to embossed printing and other types of tactile effects, HCP offers metallic printing “for even more brilliance on plastic.”

Technical Challenges

At Bormioli Luigi, marketing director Corrado Lusetti attested to industry conditions returning to normal, particularly in Europe, citing a number of new launches in France and Italy, due to what he calls “a tradition of fragrance,” although he said there was still a question of what 2011 will bring. Lusetti noted that there had been more new designs in Europe than in the U.S., and that the holiday season in the U.S. would be a good indicator of what might be in store for the coming year. He pointed out a number of the company’s technical and decorating feats in 2010 launches, including Van Cleef & Arpel’s Midnight in Paris, Paco Rabanne Lady Million and Miss Pucci.

Stock Impressions

Touring the show floor with “packaging interpreter” Marc Rosen provided an insightful overview.

It’s become a tradition at both Luxe Pack Monaco and Luxe Pack New York for me to accompany internationally renowned packaging designer Marc Rosen, on a preliminary tour of the show floor to get a sense of the latest trends. On this, our fourth trip around the Luxe Pack Monaco show floor, we took stock (literally) at a number of stands.

At Vetronaviglio, headquartered in Italy, Rosen and I noted the beautiful and extensive range of stock packaging offered. Rosen found it very impressive that the stock range of plastics was so extensive, with multiple families from toggles to bottles. “The subtle colors give it the look of luxe,” said Rosen. Vetronaviglio also offered a full range of glass standards with two-piece plastic caps.

We also surveyed the complete lines of standards at Dieter Bakic, where CEO Dominic Bakic showed us a number of designs. Color played an important role in complete lines that ranged from 3- to 50ml. Bakic said they had added a two-piece cap and jar “to play around with different colors and materials” on an airless line. Additional possibilities included soft touch, soft squeeze and metallics. Rosen favored the Metallica line, exhibited in a new bronzy, orangey color, which he said, “gives a standard line new life and modernity.”

At Heinz Glas, Rosen especially liked the simple, elegant design of So Elixir from Yves Rocher. The bottle for Victoria’s Secret Pink also stood out—or upside down—as the cap was on the bottom—a nod to the youth market, according to director of sales Dr. Thomas Kneitz, who also reported that, “Things are going very well at Heinz Glas”—particularly in South America, which he referred to as “a dream.” Heinz also offered a variety of shapes to appeal to the younger generation of shoppers at Victoria’s Secret: bottles shaped as stars, hearts, peace signs and sunflowers. Kneitz then showed us a new option from Heinz: a line of standard molds.

Rolling Optics, based in Sweden, was an eye-opener for a simple decorative technique that literally popped on packages from stock to custom designs. The company uses what VP product innovation Axel Lundvall calls “a revolutionary 3D material,” a new type of hologram, which it developed over a 10-year period, and now manufactures. Lundvall showed Rosen and me how the multi-dimensional-looking labels are applied on a package as a window printed on plastic film to create optical illusions. When stars blink and eyes gaze into the galaxies beyond, consumers reach out. Of course, the holograms are also useful as an anti-counterfeiting measure.

Rosen also gave me a guided tour of the Eastman Chemical stand, which featured a line of cosmetics packaging—five collections—designed by Marc Rosen Associates to showcase the properties of a glass polymer material from Eastman.

Olga Bursac, vice president of sales for Bormioli Luigi, who echoed Marc Rosen’s thoughts when she said the U.S. has been a market of flankers this year, pointed out the very well-appointed and embellished flanker the company had completed for Juicy Couture’s Peace, Love and Juicy Couture; the beaded bracelet that wraps around the neck of the bottle can be removed and worn as a colorful accessory. Bursac was especially proud of the many technical challenges achieved for the intricate new flacon for Victoria’s Secret Bombshell. Like other custom glass houses exhibiting at the show, Bormioli Luigi also offered a new standard line, Linkx, which features an overmolding technology, using Surlyn on glass.

SGD introduced a number of flankers along with several new designs. Twirl by Kate Spade, a new launch, was especially lovely with gold confetti swirling through the flacon; dots are pad printed on the bottle and magnified inside, reminiscent of a snow globe or a disco ball. A gold-colored multi-faceted cap and a red “ribbon” accent the feminine package. Vice president of sales and marketing Sheherazade Chamlou also showed me a number of decorative techniques such as screening methods, metal brushing, feeder colors, peelable inks and bubble glass. “We’re really working on decorative techniques,” she said.

At Pacific Glas, decorative effects on glass bottles included ice coating, marble coating and inkjet printing, which Jack An said, allows for many different designs.

At VPI, I fell in love with Lalique Parfums’ Fleur de Cristal. Gilles Pauget, president/CEO, explained the technology behind the completely translucent ring, in which 19 delicate Lily of the Valley bell-shaped flowers appear suspended. VPI developed the tri-injection, used in such a way as to encapsulate the bells between two layers of Surlyn PC 2000, ensuring pureness and transparency. The Lily of the Valley bells, floating in the Surlyn, were molded with a compound, specially created with DuPont “in order to guarantee the finesse of their shape and complete integration, without distortion, into the ring.” Pauget said the project required 18 months of work, with several stages of prototype, several trial molds and dozens of tiny adjustments coupled with a shared passion and confidence of all partners, for this idea to be fully realized.”

Focus on Airless

Along with the many intricate decorative effects shown, airless dispensing was another key trend.
Interest was strong at Promens, where attendees gathered to get a look at what the company called its first ecological airless dispensing system. In fact, Ecolution was awarded Luxe Pack Monaco’s Luxe Pack in Green Award. Judges had found the system especially interesting due to the reduction of parts of the dispenser—to four parts. Ecolution cuts down on carbon dioxide emissions and is more easily recyclable than traditional piston-based airless packages. Made entirely out of plastic, polypropylene and polyethylene, it is totally recyclable. In addition, the bottle can be made with recycled polyethylene, further reducing its environmental impact. Ecolution is available with two different actuators— short or long—and bottles are available in five sizes from 50-500ml.

Flash from the Past

Marc Rosen panel seeks to regenerate successful packaging ideas.

“Looking Back to See the Future” was a panel envisioned and led by packaging designer Marc Rosen, with the intent to look back at past successes that can reinvigorate and restore today’s market. Joining Rosen were Lynne Greene, president, Clinique; Rochelle Bloom, president, The Fragrance Foundation; Tim Dell, executive vice president, Eastman Chemical; and Terry Young, managing director, RAPP, a unit of Omnicom Group, Inc.

Greene said that Clinique’s success has rested on its stability for more than 40 years, and still follows the same three basic steps in its core beauty routine, modernizing along the way by switching from a bar of soap to a pump; and adding “anti-aging” to its clarifying lotion.

Dell mentioned that materials developed years ago, such as Tenite, derived from wood pulp, have new applications today, in sustainable packaging.
Bloom spoke about the past, when a perfume
’s packaging and style made them must-have gifts. “Now,” she said, “small entrepreneurial brands have become big, and fragrance went from luxury to a commodity.” She said the North American market has suffered the most, and that in order to improve, “there must be less fragrance launches with more put into them” to generate excitement. She suggested great packaging, new oils, telling a story, and putting more romance and mystery into the mix. (For more on Bloom’s insights and remarks at this session, please visit nitesh_bp.rodpub.com).

Young gave an overview of just how important social media has become in the marketing process. He gave examples of bloggers becoming overnight brand spokespeople, and said that research shows that, in many cases, consumers are now more likely to take the product suggestion of a blogger than of a family member or friend.

Cosmogen, as always, introduced a number of innovations at the show. Its popular Squeeze range, which started with a brush, now offers a number of applicators to choose from, including stainless steel and silicone rollers, spatulas and puffs. A new mini range, 7-15ml, is available with either stainless steel or ceramic roller balls (the ceramic offers an additional cooling effect, and there is no compatibility issue with any formula). A small two-sided spatula is also available, with a scrub side and a slick side. While Cosmogen also develops custom applicators for products, the company has also developed an inexpensive line of stock tubes with single- or tri-ball designs. A range of natural and synthetic brushes is also available. A refillable airless package allows the consumer to remove the cartridge and add another. “If you want to save raw materials,” said Denis Richard-Orliange, “refillables are a good answer.”

Airless containers with pouches were also available at Toly, where Dorien Bianco, head of marketing and business development, said, “Airless is the most popular package,” and explained that the use of pouches allows for various shapes of bottles. A number of compacts were on display; several offered sustainable options such as designs without hinges, use of PP or bamboo, printed mirrors and flocked effects for an added tactile sensation. A range of refillable palettes features different sized pans, with applicator recesses, that can be easily snapped in and out of the compact. Cremeluxe is a new, patented design for portable liquid foundation that integrates the benefits of a compact with the convenience and appeal of a liquid foundation. It comes with a mirror, a sponge and two complementary pan colors. Toly’s Regalo system, which has been integrated into the small Dynamic compact, is a concept whereby, on opening the lid, the applicator is lifted to present itself to the consumer.
Joycos introduced a number of new products for cosmetics packaging including an airtight compact and airtight cream jar and a gel eyeliner package with brush. Company president Soon U. Kim also showed me the latest airless bottles, with pouches, shut-offs and air blocking features.

Kiss and Makeup

Sales for makeup have continued on a positive trend, and many exhibitors at Luxe Pack Monaco had developed new packages to help brands claim their share of the lucrative market.

Rexam’s Sliding Look lipstick features an integrated mirror that slides down the side of the cap for easy on-the-go applications.

Mascara is always a “hot” item at the show, especially at Alcan Packaging Beauty, now Albéa—and this year was no exception. Creative director Michel Limongi, who carefully studies women’s habits in applying makeup for packaging inspiration, revealed the company’s TIO—or Two-in-One mascara, featuring two tools. A two-part cap/brush unscrews to essentially provide two tools. Unscrew No. 1 for loading and volume; unscrew No. 2 to clean and comb lashes. The secret lies in the circumference of the different openings of the bottle. Looking for a rotating brush? Alcan’s Revolution mascara rotates in both directions for easy and even application.

At OekaMetall, mascaras were also popular items, along with lipsticks and lipgloss, some with lacquered or metallized tops, or encrusted with Swarovski crystals. A new lipgloss applicator had been designed with a larger reservoir to absorb more formula and distribute it on the lips. “Lacquering and metallizing is always a trend, even in mass market,” said Gerald Oehlhorn, managing director and partner.

Rexam showcased its airless pumps, but had also plumped up its makeup offerings. The company’s new Color Collection introduced at the show, is billed as the industry’s first multi-palette color program for mini-products designed to simplify the master batch ordering process and, thus, cut development time in half. The program offers 72 standard colors across three palettes, to ensure the right shade for its Sofistic’s 1ml, Minimist 1ml and Sof’n’touch 1ml launches. Rexam’s Sliding Look lipstick features an integrated mirror that slides down the side of the cap for easy on-the-go applications.

Adding Closure

C+N showcased packaging designs for a number of sectors. Once known primarily for fragrance and Surlyn caps, they now also produce packaging for skin care and beverage. Company president Chris Young commented: “We have diversified our customer base substantially and expanded.” Young added that having plants in both Poland and the U.S. is an advantage to brands launching in both regions of the world. He also remarked on how wines & spirits are following fragrance trends, with bottles and caps pushing the envelope on designs and materials.

Anthony DiMaio, director of marketing and sales at Cameo Metal Products Inc., a first-time exhibitor at the show, voiced a similar sentiment concerning the rising interest in packaging for the wines & spirits segment, but also said he had seen an increased interest in fragrance packaging at Luxe Pack Monaco. He added that he had had “good quality leads.”

Boxed In

Another trend spotted by Luxe Pack’s Trends Observer was the increasingly important role of secondary packaging in bringing value to the product.

At M-Real, a Helsinki-based board manufacturer, product manager Minna Kantsila, showed me the beautiful virgin paperboard the company uses in both prestige and mass cartons; the company’s board is a light weight that still maintains stiffness and thickness. She explained that it is more ecologically sound than using recycled board that has to be transported across large distances and chemically treated. “In Finland,” said Kantsila, “forests are well-managed and actually grow more than what they’re using.” She added: “One ton of board is basically growing every second.” Her associate, from IBP, a subsidiary based in China, described a full range of services they offer that goes way beyond supplying the board to designing and creating the finished product.

Papillon introduced a box which packaging manager Lambert Henckens told me “is revolutionary.” Ready to fill the niche for gift card packaging, the company’s new magnetic foldable box sets up in seconds and has an easy insert for cards. A bow with easy stick ends can be applied. The package can be customized to fit any need.

Luxe setup boxes, used to bring value as gift boxes—and often kept for consumer re-purposing—made a grand appearance at Luxe Pack Monaco.

Knoll Packaging, which was awarded the Prestige Packaging Award at Luxe Pack Monaco, for its deluxe gift sets for Viktor & Rolf (please see more on the packaging for V&R in this issue’s article on Innovative Packaging), showcased a number of other exciting boxes that illustrated their expertise in creating shapes and applying high-end decorative techniques. Joanna Sasso, Knoll’s VP of operations, showed me the new design they had launched for this year’s show to illustrate how they can create an almost impossible shape with precision. The unusual, multifaceted crystal shape could rest on any angle. A soft-touch, rubber film lamination swept the outside, while a vibrant gloss accented the interior.

Folding cartons and setup boxes drew lots of attention at Utility Printpack where various shapes and decorative effects came into play. Jinesh Mehta, executive director, explained that the company’s state-of-the-art, nearly 300,000-sq. ft. facility, based in India, manufactures everything in-house, and thus competes well against China. Utility just invested in its third Heidelberg press that can print on foil and plastics. Numerous options for full one-stop solutions include vacuum and flocked trays, and boxes with hot stamping on PVC windows. Various shaped windows as well as numerous textural effects on foil board proved to be popular options with Luxe Pack attendees.

Putting on the Spritz

As always, pumps were also pushing the innovative envelope at Luxe Pack.

Sensea was the attraction at Aptar Beauty + Home, where Bertrand Loisel, manager of European market development, showed me how the design allows fragrance to be sprayed in a larger angle. Aptar also displayed many customized pumps developed for unique bottle shapes, as well as the Eternelle, which features an innovative locking mechanism to prevent leaking.

MWV, known for its many innovative pumps and dip tubes, emphasized its full service capabilities, which include a wide array of decorative techniques for pumps, dispensers and folding cartons. Eva Martin Fernandez, marketing manager for beauty and personal care Europe, emphasized the shelf power of customization in integrating the pump into the rest of the cosmetic and fragrance pack’s design, by using decorative techniques such as printing, engraving and hot stamping. Multiple decorations can be applied to a plain white bottle, and offset techniques can apply five colors at once. Then there’s metal overshells, pearlized effects, lacquering, silkscreening… “Whether mass or prestige, everyone wants to take advantage of standard products,” said Fernandez, “and all these techniques can embellish standard lines and integrate them into the brand.” Focus lies on airless ranges, which Fernandez said is “one of the most important trends in Europe and the U.S.”

Evidently a lot of visitors favored the approach. MWV’s public relations coordinator, Jennifer McMahon, summed up Luxe Pack Monaco’s success when she told me, “We’ve had an incredible show. Next year we’d like to get a larger space.”